Sunglasses

On the first Saturday after my quarantine, I had a "lunch date" with a friend. I wore the designer sunglasses that my daughter secretly placed in my backpack before I left her apartment in the US to return to my apartment in Florence.  I also wore my new Italian watch and a fresh hairstyle.  The sun was shining as I walked to Piazza Santo Spirito, and I began to understand why Italians value a good haircut and great sunglasses. I had  a bounce in my step and extra confidence; when a couple of heads turned as I walked past, my spirit was even lighter.  Is this what is meant by sprezzatura?

A couple of days after I returned to Florence,  I finally had the energy to clean out my backpack.  When I discovered the sunglasses, I sat on my bed and cried. The last few months had been such a mix of emotions. For every positive, there was a negative.  For the first month I was with a good friend at his beautiful home, but waiting for news about my mother's health.  When I could get to see my mom, she lasted only three more days, but that was followed by good times with my brothers. I navigated airports and planes during the pandemic to spend time with each of my kids, and the days with them were wonderful.  No distractions, no arguments, just lots of hiking, shopping, cooking, talking. Alone in Florence again, I missed all the company of the previous months. 

The sunglasses, however, just might be part of my daughter's plan to help in my transformation of being more "chic" here in Italy. At her apartment, she wanted me to try on some of her sunglasses and pick out a new look.  Little did I know that the pair I liked the most would take the trip with me.  I do love her attention to fashion details, and I'll do my best to pay attention, too.

 (Lunch outside at Piazza Santa Spirito with Salvatore, Kimberly's boyfriend; Kimberly, taking the photo; and me.  In true Italian style, we sat together for hours!)  

Prosechino

Today, Friday, 12 June, was my first day out of the 14 day self-quarantine required on my return to Florence and my first day out of the "lockdown" of the last three months. Admittedly, my particular situation was unusual in that during this pandemic, I flew to four states, beginning with a trans-Atlantic flight from Rome to NJ.  After a month in NJ in quarantine with a friend, I flew to Florida to be with my mother during her final days, and then to Denver and Chicago  to visit with my kids.  Traveling during a pandemic is not relaxing, so this first day of true "freedom" required celebration: a hair appointment and lunch at a neighborhood osteria.

At both Wave hair salon and Osteria da Fulvio, I am a regular customer. In both establishments, I knew I would have a warm welcome:  a smile, a heartfelt "Buongiorno" and "Com'e stai?" In the hair salon, the stylists know my name, a bit about my decision to live in Florence, and I know a little about their personal lives.  At the osteria, though, I am always addressed as "signora", but it is the complimentary Prosecco that signals recognition.

When I finished at the hair salon and we said our good-byes, I took a few photos along the Arno and walked to Osteria da Fulvio. I have eaten lunch here alone and with friends.  I hoped that when I walked in the owner would remember me, since I had been away for three months.  Once I removed my sunglasses and mask, I received a smile and another "Buongiorno"!  After a brief exchange, I was asked, "Vuoi  Prosechino?" Would I like a small Prosecco?  "Si, grazie."  From a tap behind the bar, Fulvio poured a complimentary glass of Prosecco, his offer of thanks for being a regular.

A move to a new city means that for a while, maybe a long while, a person is not known anywhere as a "regular."  This situation in which no one knows you, can create a positive "devil may care" attitude, or a negative state of loneliness.  When I first arrived in Florence in September 2019, I experienced both feelings.  Now, though, I am happier to be recognized with a smile and a complimentary Prosechino.  (Note- In this word, the "ch" is pronounced as a "k".) 

🥂🍾

Walking Through History

I attended a meeting of an international women's league in Florence that was held in a stunning rooftop apartment with an important address: San Felice, 8.  This is the same address of Casa Guidi, the apartment in which Elizabeth Barrett Browning and Robert Browning lived from 1846-1861, when Elizabeth died.  There is a statue of the bust of Robert Browning in the foyer, and their apartment is now a museum. The building is on a small piazza, with the church Chiesa di San Felice (10th century) next door. Restaurants and artisan shops line the adjacent streets.  As in much of Florence, there's a mix of very old and new.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Casa_Guidi


When I left the meeting to walk home, even though I had walked this path many times, I decided to really pay attention to all of the historic monuments I passed in 20 minutes.  And, exactly how old was each of these historic buildings? The first palace I reached immediately around the corner from Piazza San Felice was the grand Palazzo Pitti, dating back to 1458 when it was owned by the prominent banker, Lucca Pitti. (The palace was bought by the Medici family in 1549.) The old palace is now a prominent museum, along with the lush Boboli Gardens which is also open to the public.

As this was January, the restaurants and bars near the Palazzo Pitti were empty, and the street was peaceful. I continued, and chose the street Sdrucciolo De' Pitti across from the Palazzo Pitti,  to reach Piazza Santo Spirito. (If I had chosen a different route, I would have reached the Ponte Vecchio, dating from 1345 and the only bridge not destroyed during WWII.) In this piazza, along with many bars and restaurants, is the Basilica di Santo Spirito. This church has a plain facade, with an iconic shape originally designed by Filippo Brunelleschi, but completed in 1487, after Brunelleschi died.  Of course, Brunelleschi is most famous for his design of the Duomo, which seems to peek around every corner throughout the historical center.

I walked across Piazza Santo Spirito, onto via Sant'Agostino, through Piazza del Carmine and reached the church called Santa Maria del Carmine.  This church was originally built in 1268, then renovated after a fire in 1711. The church is free to enter, but the masterpiece frescoes by Massacio and Masolino inside the Brancacci chapel require a separate entrance and a fee.  The frescoes, commissioned by Felice Brancacci in 1425, are believed to be the first masterworks of the Italian Renaissance. Fortunately, they survived the fire!  (NB- There is a 30 minute viewing limit for the Massacio frescoes. However, I went on a rainy afternoon in November, and I was the only person in the chapel!)

After the piazza, I walked on a quiet side street with more shops and restaurants. The now modern Hotel Horto Convento, used to be a convent. (My family stayed there for Christmas and it's lovely.) Finally, I passed through the arch of the 13th century gate of San Frediano.  The gate still has its large wooden doors and metal locks.  The architect is believed to be Andrea Pisano, who also designed the famous south doors on the baptistery in the Piazza del Duomo.

The remaining couple of blocks are filled with modern every-day life. I say hello to the young guy who works at the salume shop.  The recycling bins are full. The shoe repair is closed for the evening.  My apartment building is only two years old, but the street is named after Benozzo Gozzoli, a famous Renaissance painter.  Everywhere is a reminder of the artistic and political past of the city and the country of Italy.  How does this mix of old and new influence a population?  Like me, do long-time residents still wander into churches to marvel at the beauty, or do they just hurry along, leaving the discovery to tourists?

Cascine Park or Parco delle Cascine

Cascine Park or Parco delle Cascine
Tuesday, September 17, 2019

Cascine Park is the largest public park in Florence.  Like so many places in Florence, its history dates back to the Medici family.  What was once private is now fully open to the public.  There's a convenient tram line to reach Cascine from the historical center, too. Meno male! (Thank goodness!)

I walked to the park on my first day here and was pleased to discover its proximity. A few days later, I was reading about the outdoor markets in Florence, and learned of the Tuesday market at Cascine Park.   It sounded like a perfect opportunity to experience local life.

So, Tuesday morning after my run and shower, I walked to the park thinking I would get some fruit and lunch at the market.  I was completely unprepared for the size!  Nearly 3/4 mile of stalls on both sides of the walkway. The market contained EVERYTHING!  Tutti!  Food, household supplies, gadgets, pets, yarn, perfume, all kinds of clothes.  Honestly, it was overwhelming.

I walked the length of the market and by that time some vendors were packing up to leave. I stopped to watch. What  fascinated me is that each vendor stored their wares in a van with a large door along the side. The cloth awning extends from the top of the van and covers the tables that display the items for sale.  On the interior, each van is outfitted  differently depending on what is being sold.  Bins for shirts and housewares.  Racks for dresses. The display tables fold up neatly to tuck inside the van.  Everything is stored until the next market day.  It seemed like a lot of work!

In the end, I didn't buy anything except for lunch: a panino con porchetta (roasted and stuffed pork which is sliced for a sandwich).  It was delicious!

https://www.visitflorence.com/what-to-do-in-florence/shopping/the-cascine-market.html


http://parcodellecascine.comune.fi.it/informazioni/il_parco.html

Not Only Pizza

Not Only Pizza

September 17, 2019

I love pizza, and I especially love pizza in Italy.  However, I know a diet of only pizza would have disastrous results for my health and my waistline.  So, in the interest of following a Mediterranean diet, I eat a salad and veggies every day.  In Florence it's easy to stick to that plan.  Here are two great places for salad, as well as a very cool, nearby shop (negozio).

In Piazza Santo Spirito, I was walking around the piazza looking at menus, and the waiter at Cabiria suggested I try a large salad, a "complete meal", he said.  The food looked good and there were tables outside, so I agreed. The salad was fresh, plentiful and tasty:  greens, tomatoes, corn, carrots, tuna, mozzarella.  Even better was the price of only 6 euro!

Another well-known place is Carduccio, two blocks from Piazza Santo Spirito and near Palazzo Pitti. The food is artful, delicious, organic, biodynamic-- in other words, it looks great and is great for you. I needed a snack, so I ordered crostone (toasted bread) with goat cheese, avocado, sliced egg and almonds.  Carduccio also serves organic wine and prosecco! Since I was there in late afternoon, the cafe was quiet and I was able to have an interesting chat with the waitress.  One question I asked her was how to say the word "bohemian" in Italian, which is my perception of this neighborhood. She replied (in English) that they define this area of the Oltrarno as "radical chic".  I like it!

Across the street from Carduccio,  is a wonderful clothing and accessories  store owned by Guilia Materia.  She creates all the designs, and everything is made by hand (fatto a mano) in Florence.  Guilia is friendly, talented and passionate about her work. We had a conversation (mostly in English), about my plans in Florence and her path to owning this shop. When I was answering her questions about my year in Florence, she said, "You are on an 'Erasmus'".  An "Erasmus" applies to college students on an exchange program, and I liked her extension of the term to include possibly anyone on a type of "exchange".  She told me that she studied design during her own Erasmus in Berlin.  She made book bindings and continued to extend her creativity to clothing and bags. Her items are unique and practical. I bought a lovely skirt, or rather a "radical chic" skirt!