The Maremma

Travel might take us to a new place, or to a favorite destination.   When my neighbors asked me to join them for a trip to the Maremma, of course I agreed.  The Maremma is one of my favorite places along the Tuscan coast. And, we would stay at an agriturismo (B and B) that feels like home-- with kind hosts, a friendly dog, a pool, and a spectacular view into the hills.

The Maremma is located on the western side of Tuscany. The drive from Florence is beautiful-- rolling hills, olive groves, corn fields and in the summer, acres of sunflowers.  Some of the land remains undeveloped, in part due to the wetlands and malaria that existed only decades ago.   There are hilltop villages and castles, towns along the coast, hotels and vacation rentals.  Unlike in Florida where I spent several weeks this summer, the land around the coast is not flat and there are no palm trees.

https://www.discovertuscany.com/maremma/

http://www.travelingintuscany.com/engels/maremma.htm

At the beaches in Italy, it is common to pay for services at a "bagno".  Each bagno has a name and provides what you need for the day-- lounge chairs and umbrella, a place to change, bathrooms, and a restaurant.  The colors of the umbrellas vary from one bagno to another, which creates the rainbow that you see in the pictures of Italian beach resorts. Since it was already the first of October, only a few of the bagnos were open.  We had a very nice spot with Bagno La Vela which we enjoyed for two days of sun and waves.

http://www.castiglionepescaia.it/en/5079-2/

On our first evening, we drove to Vetulonia for an aperitivo and sunset.  The origins of the town date back to Etruscan times- approximately 600 years BC.  In past years, my friends rented a flat in Vetulonia to use a base to go to the beach and explore the area. I had also been to Vetulonia with them before and understood its lure.  When we arrived to one of the few bars, they were greeted warmly. The bar with a view to the sunset is a popular gathering spot.  I asked my friend about the population and she reminded me that there are 254 inhabitants.  There was a mix of old and young having a spritz or beer.  I wondered what it would be like to live in such a small community, full of natural beauty and history, though none of the activities that I enjoy.  

Dinner both evenings were at a local restaurant near our B and B.  The restaurant was busy, with tables inside and outside.  There were German tourists at the table next to us.  The service was efficient, the wine and food very good.  The first night I had cream of pumpkin soup, salad, tagliatelle with cinghiale (wild boar sauce). The second night I had pizza.  Certo!  Speaking of wild boars, we did spot a white boar on the side of the road as we drove back in the dark to where we were staying.  The next night, I was awakened by clacking and digging sounds-- wild boar tearing up the yard to eat the roots of the grass. I did not get out of bed to investigate, and in the morning was a bit regretful that I had missed such a photo opportunity.  

The time at the beach, early morning swims, and good company were just the reset I needed after a frustrating week of trying to recover the items that were in my stolen wallet.  

The third day we bypassed the beach and instead went to a small farm and then the old city of Massa Marittima.  That will be a separate post. 

Neighbors

When the electricity in the apartment fails, the immigration appointment is cancelled, and you have wonderful neighbors who say, "Take the bus tomorrow and join us at the beach",  you pack immediately.  

During the first month in my apartment in Florence, I met my next door neighbors-- first I talked with Ursula over the garden fence, then a couple of weeks later,  she and Sergio invited me for dinner. We quickly formed a connection and have shared many local activities, meals, and travels. They met my kids on Christmas Eve, and we had lively conversation over a holiday aperitivo. 

The beach that my neighbors frequent is in the Maremma, the coastal area of Tuscany that borders the Tyrrhenian Sea.  At one time the area was marshland and infested with mosquitoes carrying malaria.  By order of Fernando I de'Medici, the area was drained.  Now, centuries later, the hillsides are beautiful with many agricultural fields.  To reach them, I took two busses and they met me at the bus station in Grosseto. We ate a wonderful seafood lunch, stopped at a winery, and did some exploring before going to Il Pino B&B, near Vetulonia, in the municipality of Castiglione della Pescaia.  This is the Tuscany of post cards-- pine and cypress trees, sunflowers, rolling hills, and the sea!

The B&B was up a dirt road, through a grove of olive trees. ( http://www.ilpinobeb.it/en/#home)

We were greeted by the friendly owners and their equally friendly dog, Leopoldo, or Poldo for short. The grounds are filled with flowers and giant agave plants. My accommodation was a two-floor small apartment, with a kitchen and a patio, pictured below.  For my first night, Ursula suggested that we eat dinner on the patio, so we could watch the sunset over the hills. (NB- The pool in the photo is about a dozen steps from the patio- just a bad perspective in this photo.  For the two mornings I was there, I got up extra early to swim before breakfast, which I think the owners found amusing. But, the second morning the cover was off the pool before I had to ask.) 

We had two warm and sunny beach days.  There are different beach areas-- the public area where people bring their own beach gear, and the private area where you pay for chairs and umbrellas.  That's the side my neighbors chose, and it was very comfortable.  We brought lunch with us, though there was a cafe to purchase coffee, salads, pasta, snacks, gelato.  Before we ate, Sergio bought three small bottles of wine to accompany lunch.  Italy, right? 

For dinner that evening, the choice was either seafood or meat.  Since I don't like most shellfish, my neighbors decided on a favorite place in the area-- a farm that produces all their food, and serves dinner several nights a week. ( https://www.biotodo.it)

Golden light on the fields before sunset. 

Antipasti.  Not for vegetarians!! 

Our dinner on the grill! 

Dinner was a feast-- antipasti, zucchini salad, eggplant, tomatoes, bread, wine, mixed grill (pork for me and Ursula, steak for Sergio), dessert and grappa.  The total cost was 20 euros each.

After the second beach day, we returned to the B&B to shower before the two-hour drive to Florence.  We stopped for dinner at the medieval, walled village of Monteriggiani.  Another fascinating piece of history!  In the car, I said to Ursula that she and Sergio could start a tour company.  She replied, "So far, we've only shown you 1% of what we know."  Sign me up for the other 99 percent, per favore!