Neighborhood Places

"Grazie, cara."  "Carissima." "Ciao bella".  These are common salutations in Italy, phrases I hear routinely from strangers, shop owners and friends.  It is part of the Italian charm, what makes people feel welcome quickly.  Combine these with the joy of being in a favorite neighborhood spot, and you will think you are at home. 

On my second day in Florence (September, 2021), I wanted to get some lunch, so I went outside to see what I could discover.  From my apartment, I walked a few minutes to Piazza Tasso, but nothing intrigued me.  On to via del Campuccio, which has no restaurants, but connects to other streets with cafes.  On the corner of via dei Serragli there were tables outside, a few people and the sign of "Caffe Mi Piace" ("I like coffee") over the doorframe. It looked like a good choice. I poked my head in the door, said "Buongiorno", and surveyed the platters of vegetables, pastas, rice and meat that were on the top shelf.  Everything looked tasty and fresh. The owner asked if I wanted a "plate of the day."  Certo!  

The "piatto del giorno" is a mixed plate of what the chef has prepared for the day.  This cafe is owned by a husband and wife, and the wife does the cooking.  My first visit, and on each subsequent visit, I sat outside  within a small area equal to several parking places that was surrounded by plants. The portions are generous and the couple is proud of the food they prepare.   Grilled radicchio, broccoli, beans, rice.  Fresh bread. Sparkling water.  On my first visit, I spoke with a woman seated nearby.  The owner brought me a small pastry and when she said she wanted one too, he replied it was only for tourists.  They clearly knew one another and laughed.  

When I returned the following week, the owner smiled and said, "Ciao, bella." There it is- the sweet recognition and a way to say "Welcome back".  He turned to his wife and asked if she remembered me.  She scowled and said of course.  When I started to choose what I would have for lunch, she said to me that she would prepare the plate.  Ok.  I went to sit in the sun.  When I finished eating and went inside to pay, the husband of the couple asked for 8 euros instead of 8.50.  A small "thank you" for my return visit. 

When visitors think about aspects of Italy that they love, surely this scenario comes to mind-- a warm greeting, wonderful food, a reasonable price, the feeling of belonging.  Certainly, all over the developed world this exchange and opportunity exists.  A local coffee shop, wine store, or favorite pizzeria.  What makes the experience so special in Italy? 

Shortly after the second visit, I sprained my ankle and couldn't easily walk to Caffe Mi Piace.  But, when I again returned, I was greeted with "Ciao, amica" by the husband, Roberto, and a friendly smile from the wife.  (He is clearly the more gregarious of the two.)  I sat at my usual table in the sun and was served a generous meal of seasonal specialities.  Other people ate lunch outside, some with a mixed plate, others just had pasta.  Many people picked up food to go.  A few ordered a panini, or just a quick coffee.  Roberto seemed to know everyone.  

Tomorrow the weather will be warm and sunny, even though it's mid-November.  I'll go back to Caffe Mi Piace, sit at my usual table, and enjoy being a "regular" in the neighborhood.  Grazie, cara.