Out for Lunch

On Monday morning, 15 June, I decided that I was going out for lunch each day during the upcoming week.  I have a friend here in Florence who goes out for lunch every day.  When she first told me this, I was surprised and curious. She said she looks forward to it. This was so unlike my past day-to-day life as a teacher, where sometimes it seemed that even eating lunch was a bonus. Going out to a restaurant for lunch was reserved for the weekend or vacation.   

Now, here I am back in Florence after a three-month lockdown.  The city is void of tourists.  Many restaurants are open and have created lovely outdoor green spaces to allow for social distancing.  The weather is pleasant, in between some spring thunderstorms.  Being out for lunch has so many bonuses-- great food, no dishes, a chance to practice my Italian, people-watch, and maybe run into a friend or meet someone new.  Additionally, the price of lunch in Italy is less expensive than the price of lunch in my old hometown. 

For my first lunch out, I thought I would stroll to Piazza Signoria (near the Uffizi).  Once I started to walk, I decided to eat someplace nearby.  A few places were closed on Monday; however, as I headed to Piazza Santo Spirito, I saw that Trattoria La Casalinga was open, tables outside, and NO line.  This is a rare situation as this restaurant is always crowded and reservations are needed.  I sat at a table outside and ordered arugula salad with mounds of parmigiano shavings, followed by roast chicken and potatoes. My meal concluded with a macchiato decaffeinato.  As I was eating, my friend's boyfriend (who I just met on Saturday!) strolled by and waved.  It was all wonderful and I will certainly return. 

Then, because I was already out, I stopped at the market in the piazza to get flowers, popped into a favorite boutique and bought a new skirt and top, and selected a cantaloupe from the greengrocer.  If I had prepared a salad at home, I would have missed out on so much!

The next day, I tried the very cool restaurant Amble'.  I've walked past their courtyard before, though didn't connect the name and the place.  Lunch for me was a salad with tuna and egg, accompanied by aqua frizzante and a glass of chardonnay.  The courtyard is a great place to people watch-- a variety of people sat down to eat and also some good-looking Italian men strolled past.  Interestingly, this restaurant has a radio station!  The waiter told me that normally there are dj's, live performances, and literary readings.  He said that possibly those will return in another week.  Here's the link to the radio station-- https://www.amble.it/radio.

(I imagine you are curious about the prices. Generally, when you eat in a restaurant, there is a 2 euros table charge per person, called a "coperto".  My costs in euros--first lunch 22.50; second 15.50. It is possible to eat for much less if you order simply pasta or a panini, or much more if you order steak!)

Prosechino

Today, Friday, 12 June, was my first day out of the 14 day self-quarantine required on my return to Florence and my first day out of the "lockdown" of the last three months. Admittedly, my particular situation was unusual in that during this pandemic, I flew to four states, beginning with a trans-Atlantic flight from Rome to NJ.  After a month in NJ in quarantine with a friend, I flew to Florida to be with my mother during her final days, and then to Denver and Chicago  to visit with my kids.  Traveling during a pandemic is not relaxing, so this first day of true "freedom" required celebration: a hair appointment and lunch at a neighborhood osteria.

At both Wave hair salon and Osteria da Fulvio, I am a regular customer. In both establishments, I knew I would have a warm welcome:  a smile, a heartfelt "Buongiorno" and "Com'e stai?" In the hair salon, the stylists know my name, a bit about my decision to live in Florence, and I know a little about their personal lives.  At the osteria, though, I am always addressed as "signora", but it is the complimentary Prosecco that signals recognition.

When I finished at the hair salon and we said our good-byes, I took a few photos along the Arno and walked to Osteria da Fulvio. I have eaten lunch here alone and with friends.  I hoped that when I walked in the owner would remember me, since I had been away for three months.  Once I removed my sunglasses and mask, I received a smile and another "Buongiorno"!  After a brief exchange, I was asked, "Vuoi  Prosechino?" Would I like a small Prosecco?  "Si, grazie."  From a tap behind the bar, Fulvio poured a complimentary glass of Prosecco, his offer of thanks for being a regular.

A move to a new city means that for a while, maybe a long while, a person is not known anywhere as a "regular."  This situation in which no one knows you, can create a positive "devil may care" attitude, or a negative state of loneliness.  When I first arrived in Florence in September 2019, I experienced both feelings.  Now, though, I am happier to be recognized with a smile and a complimentary Prosechino.  (Note- In this word, the "ch" is pronounced as a "k".) 

🥂🍾