Several weeks before my trip to Isola d'Elba, I purchased a watch from the Locman store in Florence. The headquarters for Locman is on Elba, which I did not know until I was chatting with the store manager, Simona. Because Simona was so friendly, I emailed her before I went on my trip and asked for advice. She replied that I had to go to the town of Capoliveri at night.
While there were many places on my Elba list that I did not visit, I made sure to see Capoliveri. The hotel manager, Massimo, who advised me to relax on the "sunbed", did help me plan this small adventure. He arranged for the taxi, selected and reserved a table at the restaurant, La Taverna dei Poeti, and suggested the time I would need to explore and eat dinner.
Capoliveri sits on a hill, 167 meters above sea level and overlooking Porto Azzurro. Many people visit this town to wander, shop, enjoy an aperitivo or dinner, or attend a performance. While one cab driver said no one actually lives in the hill town, I found evidence to the contrary-- many clotheslines filled with laundry hanging in the alleyways. One aspect of Italian life that I find so intriguing is that laundry is not private.
In a country where few people seem to have clothes dryers, there is no alternative but to hang clothes to dry, either outside in the warm weather, or inside when necessary. In my neighborhood in the Oltrarno, clothes are draped over balconies and outside windows. Once while on the island of Burano (near Venice), I walked away from the main street with all the shops selling expensive, hand-made lace, and laundry was everywhere! There was even a clothesline strung in a small passageway connecting two streets. I am always touched by this glimpse into our real human lives, especially amidst all the tourist attractions. Also, there doesn't seem to be much modesty about one's undergarments on public display!
After secretly looking at laundry and strolling around the town, I ate a wonderful meal at La Taverna dei Poeti. The waiter said it's the oldest restaurant in town, dating from 1909. Now, the decor is modern, with a fresh, innovative menu. Dinner lasted over two hours, and I had to hurry to meet the taxi driver. The streets were crowded and there was a line at the gelateria. Everyone was enjoying the cool night air, the freedom to walk around after long days of "lockdown", and the lights sparkling on the hill below.
