A Rocky Beach

Maybe you, too, have seen the photos of the beaches in Italy that are surrounded by boulders.  Some people sunbathe on the rocks, others jump into the clear, blue water.  And, maybe, like me, you long to be at that beach.  Even though I read about Ancona before my trip, I didn't know that I was about to discover one of those beaches!  When I checked into the Grand Hotel Palace, I asked the young woman behind the desk for recommendations. She suggested a nearby cafe with outdoor seating for lunch and then a walk to a beach directly outside the historical center.  Her voice and face filled with caution, "There are many stairs to get to the beach, and it is rocky.  There's no sand, just rocks." She thought for a moment and added that it was also possible to take an elevator to get to the beach.  I was curious!

After a lunch of salad, orecchiette with sausage and tomatoes, and white wine, I strolled through the historical center of Ancona. Then, onto a tree covered promenade to finally reach a monument and the stairs to the beach.  

Partial view of the elevator that goes to the beach. 

Stairs to the beach area.

There are many, many stairs to reach the Spiaggia del Pesseto.  There is also an elevator from the street level above to the beach area below, though most of the people I saw took the steps. I walked toward the elevator to take pictures of this postcard view, then climbed down the stairs for a closer look.  I could see low ramps to get into the water, and in one area the white stones went right to the water's edge.  Getting into the water did not require a death-defying dive!  In fact, people of all  ages were easily getting in and out of the water.  I was already eager for a beach day!

View through the plexiglass that surrounds the elevator.  

The next afternoon, I returned for a relaxing afternoon in the sun and sea.

I took the steps to get the beach and back to the street.

Sunbathing.

The elevator is partially visible on the right side of the photo.

Life can be filled with surprises, and my visit to Ancona was certainly a pleasant surprise.  Arrivederci, Ancona, alla prossima volta. Until next time.

Piazza del Plebiscito

The view of the port from my hotel room. 

Neighbors

When the electricity in the apartment fails, the immigration appointment is cancelled, and you have wonderful neighbors who say, "Take the bus tomorrow and join us at the beach",  you pack immediately.  

During the first month in my apartment in Florence, I met my next door neighbors-- first I talked with Ursula over the garden fence, then a couple of weeks later,  she and Sergio invited me for dinner. We quickly formed a connection and have shared many local activities, meals, and travels. They met my kids on Christmas Eve, and we had lively conversation over a holiday aperitivo. 

The beach that my neighbors frequent is in the Maremma, the coastal area of Tuscany that borders the Tyrrhenian Sea.  At one time the area was marshland and infested with mosquitoes carrying malaria.  By order of Fernando I de'Medici, the area was drained.  Now, centuries later, the hillsides are beautiful with many agricultural fields.  To reach them, I took two busses and they met me at the bus station in Grosseto. We ate a wonderful seafood lunch, stopped at a winery, and did some exploring before going to Il Pino B&B, near Vetulonia, in the municipality of Castiglione della Pescaia.  This is the Tuscany of post cards-- pine and cypress trees, sunflowers, rolling hills, and the sea!

The B&B was up a dirt road, through a grove of olive trees. ( http://www.ilpinobeb.it/en/#home)

We were greeted by the friendly owners and their equally friendly dog, Leopoldo, or Poldo for short. The grounds are filled with flowers and giant agave plants. My accommodation was a two-floor small apartment, with a kitchen and a patio, pictured below.  For my first night, Ursula suggested that we eat dinner on the patio, so we could watch the sunset over the hills. (NB- The pool in the photo is about a dozen steps from the patio- just a bad perspective in this photo.  For the two mornings I was there, I got up extra early to swim before breakfast, which I think the owners found amusing. But, the second morning the cover was off the pool before I had to ask.) 

We had two warm and sunny beach days.  There are different beach areas-- the public area where people bring their own beach gear, and the private area where you pay for chairs and umbrellas.  That's the side my neighbors chose, and it was very comfortable.  We brought lunch with us, though there was a cafe to purchase coffee, salads, pasta, snacks, gelato.  Before we ate, Sergio bought three small bottles of wine to accompany lunch.  Italy, right? 

For dinner that evening, the choice was either seafood or meat.  Since I don't like most shellfish, my neighbors decided on a favorite place in the area-- a farm that produces all their food, and serves dinner several nights a week. ( https://www.biotodo.it)

Golden light on the fields before sunset. 

Antipasti.  Not for vegetarians!! 

Our dinner on the grill! 

Dinner was a feast-- antipasti, zucchini salad, eggplant, tomatoes, bread, wine, mixed grill (pork for me and Ursula, steak for Sergio), dessert and grappa.  The total cost was 20 euros each.

After the second beach day, we returned to the B&B to shower before the two-hour drive to Florence.  We stopped for dinner at the medieval, walled village of Monteriggiani.  Another fascinating piece of history!  In the car, I said to Ursula that she and Sergio could start a tour company.  She replied, "So far, we've only shown you 1% of what we know."  Sign me up for the other 99 percent, per favore!