I drafted this post more than a month ago, when I was still in Florence. The idea of "possibilities", though, is relevant in many circumstances. Often, I have to remind myself that I have a choice, that there is more than one possibility. I recall that on my first trip to Italy, a hotel manager in Rome explained this--"Americans think that there is only one possibility, for instance 2+2=4. But, Italians understand that there is more than one possibility, that 3+1 also equals 4." Here is how I came to more fully comprehend and admire how some Italians interpret a rule.
In the late autumn, when the restrictions in Florence increased to "zona rossa" or "red zone", most shops closed and the movement of residents was curtailed. Some of the restrictions were vague, which made me nervous. What exactly was meant that a person could exercise on foot or bicycle, but "near one's home"? Could I go for a jog in the park or not? What was I supposed to write on the required "declaration" form? Would my reason for being out be accepted if I were stopped by the polizia?
The first day of the restrictions, I decided to stay in except to get groceries a block away. I discussed the situation with my neighbors. Ursula printed out copies of the required "declaration" form, and Sergio explained how to fill in the information. They each reassured me that I could go for a jog and take walks. Sergio elaborated, "Basically, no one cares."
The obvious choices of shops to be open were the food stores, pharmacies, banks, post offices, shipping agents, newspaper stands. Additionally, stores selling children's clothes could be open, which applied to The Disney Store, even though its clothing section was limited. Also open were shops selling intimate apparel (underwear, socks, pajamas) and self-care items. Sephora (make-up and more) was open, as was Jo Malone (expensive fragrances and candles). So, one afternoon I took a walk to Sephora. I was beginning to understand.
Included in the food stores were also shops selling gelato and chocolate. Close to Sephora and the breathtaking Duomo is Venchi, with its dramatic wall of flowing chocolate. I stopped to get candy for Christmas gifts, and also a gelato. Perche' no? Why not? I asked for a cone. The saleswoman replied that she could not put my gelato in a cone, but she could give me a cone. Here's how it worked-- my two scoops of gelato (two different flavors) were placed in a cup and another cup was placed on top. This went into a bag... followed by a small spoon in its own bag, a cone in its own cellophane bag, and a paper napkin. I paid, found a place to sit outside, removed my mask, and disassembled the bags. Instead of having the gelato piled on the cone, I used the cone as a scoop. I have to confess that my first reaction was to be pleased about the creativity of the shop to insure that each customer would still get a cone. My second reaction though, was concern about the additional garbage and cost of the bags within the bags.
Each day, I figured out somewhere to walk, and filled in something vague on the required form. (I was never stopped.) A particularly fortuitous incident occurred on a walk on via Santo Spirito. I passed an art shop where I had previously purchased a print, that was still in a poster tube at my apartment. I noticed the lights were on and the owners were inside. I knocked and the son unlocked the door to let me in. I commented that I was glad they were allowed to be open. The son hesitated and said, "Well, we are here, and if someone walks by and wants to come in to the store, then we let them." "Ho capito," I replied. I purchased two more prints, and the owners mailed my previous purchase and the new prints to the US for me.
There were numerous other times that we all found ways to live within the rules in a creative way-- getting a coffee or Prosecco in a shop and drinking in the open-air piazza, finding a place to hike that was technically inside of the city limits of Florence when we weren't allowed to leave town. Quindi, therefore, the hotel manager from my first trip was correct, Italians know there is more than one way.
