The Maremma

Travel might take us to a new place, or to a favorite destination.   When my neighbors asked me to join them for a trip to the Maremma, of course I agreed.  The Maremma is one of my favorite places along the Tuscan coast. And, we would stay at an agriturismo (B and B) that feels like home-- with kind hosts, a friendly dog, a pool, and a spectacular view into the hills.

The Maremma is located on the western side of Tuscany. The drive from Florence is beautiful-- rolling hills, olive groves, corn fields and in the summer, acres of sunflowers.  Some of the land remains undeveloped, in part due to the wetlands and malaria that existed only decades ago.   There are hilltop villages and castles, towns along the coast, hotels and vacation rentals.  Unlike in Florida where I spent several weeks this summer, the land around the coast is not flat and there are no palm trees.

https://www.discovertuscany.com/maremma/

http://www.travelingintuscany.com/engels/maremma.htm

At the beaches in Italy, it is common to pay for services at a "bagno".  Each bagno has a name and provides what you need for the day-- lounge chairs and umbrella, a place to change, bathrooms, and a restaurant.  The colors of the umbrellas vary from one bagno to another, which creates the rainbow that you see in the pictures of Italian beach resorts. Since it was already the first of October, only a few of the bagnos were open.  We had a very nice spot with Bagno La Vela which we enjoyed for two days of sun and waves.

http://www.castiglionepescaia.it/en/5079-2/

On our first evening, we drove to Vetulonia for an aperitivo and sunset.  The origins of the town date back to Etruscan times- approximately 600 years BC.  In past years, my friends rented a flat in Vetulonia to use a base to go to the beach and explore the area. I had also been to Vetulonia with them before and understood its lure.  When we arrived to one of the few bars, they were greeted warmly. The bar with a view to the sunset is a popular gathering spot.  I asked my friend about the population and she reminded me that there are 254 inhabitants.  There was a mix of old and young having a spritz or beer.  I wondered what it would be like to live in such a small community, full of natural beauty and history, though none of the activities that I enjoy.  

Dinner both evenings were at a local restaurant near our B and B.  The restaurant was busy, with tables inside and outside.  There were German tourists at the table next to us.  The service was efficient, the wine and food very good.  The first night I had cream of pumpkin soup, salad, tagliatelle with cinghiale (wild boar sauce). The second night I had pizza.  Certo!  Speaking of wild boars, we did spot a white boar on the side of the road as we drove back in the dark to where we were staying.  The next night, I was awakened by clacking and digging sounds-- wild boar tearing up the yard to eat the roots of the grass. I did not get out of bed to investigate, and in the morning was a bit regretful that I had missed such a photo opportunity.  

The time at the beach, early morning swims, and good company were just the reset I needed after a frustrating week of trying to recover the items that were in my stolen wallet.  

The third day we bypassed the beach and instead went to a small farm and then the old city of Massa Marittima.  That will be a separate post. 

What is possible?

I drafted this post more than a month ago, when I was still in Florence.  The idea of "possibilities", though, is relevant in many circumstances. Often, I have to remind myself that I have a choice, that there is more than one possibility. I recall that on my first trip to Italy, a hotel manager in Rome explained this--"Americans think that there is only one possibility, for instance 2+2=4.  But, Italians understand that there is more than one possibility, that 3+1 also equals 4."  Here is how I came to more fully comprehend and admire how some Italians interpret a rule.

In the late autumn, when the restrictions in Florence increased to "zona rossa" or "red zone", most shops closed and the movement of residents was curtailed. Some of the restrictions were vague, which made me nervous.  What exactly was meant that a person could exercise on foot or bicycle, but "near one's home"?  Could I go for a jog in the park or not?  What was I supposed to write on the required "declaration" form?  Would my reason for being out be accepted if I were stopped by the polizia? 

The first day of the restrictions, I decided to stay in except to get groceries a block away.  I discussed the situation with my neighbors. Ursula printed out copies of the required "declaration" form, and Sergio explained how to fill in the information.  They each reassured me that I could go for a jog and take walks.  Sergio elaborated, "Basically, no one cares." 

The obvious choices of shops to be open were the food stores, pharmacies, banks, post offices, shipping agents, newspaper stands.  Additionally, stores selling children's clothes could be open, which applied to The Disney Store, even though its clothing section was limited. Also open were shops selling intimate apparel (underwear, socks, pajamas) and self-care items. Sephora (make-up and more) was open, as was Jo Malone (expensive fragrances and candles).   So, one afternoon I took a walk to Sephora.  I was beginning to understand. 

Included in the food stores were also shops selling gelato and chocolate. Close to Sephora and the breathtaking Duomo is Venchi, with its dramatic wall of flowing chocolate.   I stopped to get candy for Christmas gifts, and also a gelato. Perche' no?  Why not?   I asked for a cone.  The saleswoman replied that she could not put my gelato in a cone, but she could give me a cone.  Here's how it worked-- my two scoops of gelato (two different flavors) were placed in a cup and another cup was placed on top.  This went into a bag... followed by a small spoon in its own bag, a cone in its own cellophane bag, and a paper napkin. I paid, found a place to sit outside, removed my mask, and disassembled the bags.  Instead of having the gelato piled on the cone, I used the cone as a scoop.  I have to confess that my first reaction was to be pleased about the creativity of the shop to insure that each customer would still get a cone.  My second reaction though, was concern about the additional garbage and cost of the bags within the bags.     

Each day, I figured out somewhere to walk, and filled in something vague on the required form. (I was never stopped.) A particularly fortuitous incident occurred on a walk on via Santo Spirito.  I passed an art shop where I had previously purchased a print, that was still in a poster tube at my apartment. I noticed the lights were on and the owners were inside.  I knocked and the son unlocked the door to let me in.  I commented that I was glad they were allowed to be open.  The son hesitated and said, "Well, we are here, and if someone walks by and wants to come in to the store, then we let them."  "Ho capito," I replied.  I purchased two more prints, and the owners mailed my previous purchase and the new prints to the US for me.  

There were numerous other times that we all found ways to live within the rules in a creative way-- getting a coffee or Prosecco in a shop and drinking in the open-air piazza, finding a place to hike that was technically inside of the city limits of Florence when we weren't allowed to leave town.  Quindi, therefore, the hotel manager from my first trip was correct, Italians know there is more than one way.  

Seasons

A few days ago, November 6, I joined my neighbor to help with her friend's olive harvest.  Last November I went to pick olives for the first time at the same place. So much of my life in New Jersey was marked by the seasons, and it felt special to have that same experience in a different country. However, one year ago, the day had a different feel. For me personally, it was the start of my stay in Italy, with every day full of promise. Globally, there was no pandemic and no tension about waiting for the choice of the new US president.         

A day in the countryside to pick olives provided a break from constantly checking my phone to see the latest numbers for the Covid cases and the election results.  Being outside and "distanced" from  other people meant an entire day without needing a mask!  I felt productive and happy to contribute to such a worthwhile project as making olive oil. 

The Trump presidency and the election were often topics of conversation among American ex-pats, but also with my Italian friends and even with strangers.  Last week, while at the laundromat drying my sheets, a gentleman came in and inquired about the change machine and whether soap was needed in the washer.  (All the instructions are written in Italian and English.  He spoke Italian.) He asked me where I was from and when I replied "the United States" he gave a thumbs up and said, "Biden".  

Then, while olive picking, one of the women asked me why the election was taking so long.  She spoke a bit of English, and my Italian skills were not enough to explain the process of the absentee ballots and mail-in votes.  But, we did our best and she seemed to understand the many complications.  I'll tell you, when an Italian shakes her head over American bureaucracy, you know you are in trouble!!

Now, the election has been decided.  Hopefully, my sleep will improve! And, for America and the rest of the world, I have much bigger hopes.  

Layers

If you are a regular reader of The New York Times, you might recall this article from April, 2015, about a family in Lecce, Italy, who discovered remnants from ancient civilizations under the floor of their building.  The story is that Mr. Faggiano was digging to find a sewer pipe when he found underground rooms, tombs, and relics.  On my trip to Lecce, I visited what is now the Faggiano Museum and had an informative talk with Andrea Faggiano, who is running the museum. 

The Faggiano Museum is on a quiet side street in the historical center of Lecce.  While there is a small sign at the corner pointing to the museum entrance, it wasn't until I saw the blow-up of the front page of the New York Times article that I connected the family name to the story.   Fortunately, I had plenty of time to stop for a visit. 

As I was paying the entrance fee, I mentioned to the gentleman behind the desk that I remembered reading the article that was in the NY Times.  He was excited to hear that and introduced himself as Andrea, one of the sons mentioned in the article.  Andrea was living in London, in part to escape from the digging, but returned to help run the museum. He filled in other details of the story.  The journalist who wrote the article was in Lecce to write about a tree blight.  He knew of the "digging" and visited.  His wife encouraged him to write about the Faggiano family, which he did.  Andrea said the journalist figured the article would appear in the travel section of the newspaper.  Instead, it was on the front page of the New York edition, the International edition, and the Asian edition! Maybe April 14, 2015 was a slow news day? Needless to say, the museum got busy quickly, and now the fees help to support the family.  

Andrea provided an overview of the museum layout, gave me a document in English that explained each of the numbered items in the museum, and told me I was free to take photographs.  So, I set out to explore. 

The museum provides a glimpse into different civilizations, each built on top of the other.  While many items are on display, others have been taken into state custody.  Because of their discoveries, the Faggiano family has achieved some celebrity status.  They were honored in New York City by members of the Italian-American Museum.  In turn, when visitors with the Italian-American Museum decided to visit Lecce, they were given a warm welcome and a party at the Faggiano Museum.  

I asked Andrea if his father was still digging, and if he ever opened his trattoria.  The answer to both questions was "Yes!"  Mr. Faggiano purchased the building next door to continue his excavations.  And, a block away he was able to open his own cafe.  

Here's the link to the article.

https://www.nytimes.com/2015/04/15/world/europe/centuries-of-italian-history-are-unearthed-in-quest-to-fix-toilet.html

Go for Baroque

After my stay in Bari, I decided to go further south to reach Lecce.  If you look at a map of Italy, you will see that Lecce is located in the heel of the boot, almost as far south as you can go. Often, Lecce is referred to as the "Florence of the South", though other than artisan shops and open piazzas, I didn't see other similarities.  Lecce is unique. 

Lecce is over 2,000 years old, with a long connection to Greek culture.  (However, I did not observe modern ties to Greek foods or traditions.) The Baroque monuments were added in the 1600's and it is a significant feature that is distinctive to Lecce.  

Pictured here are the Lecce Duomo (cathedral), the Basilica di Santa Croce,  interior of Santa Croce, the Roman amphitheater (2nd Century AD), a public garden and park (Giardini Pubblici Giuseppe Garibaldi), and my post-breakfast snack of cappuccino and pasticciotto Leccese.  

The pasticciotto is a rich pastry filled with egg custard.  I ate the entire pastry one morning as a "snack". The following day on the way back to Florence, I lamented that I didn't buy one to eat on the train.  Each region has its own food, and these pastries are particular to Lecce.  

I liked everything about Lecce. The city is both elegant and lively. The shops are a mix of artisans, upscale, and funk. (I purchased a beautiful linen robe and table napkins at Society Limonta, which also has online shopping.) There is a wide range of restaurants from traditional cuisine, to pizza, to salads. There are plenty of places to enjoy a glass of primitivo and to buy taralli. I would happily return, but it's a long trek by train. (NB- It is possible to fly from Florence to Bari, though I prefer the train.)

Check out the link below for the restaurant Alle due Corti to learn about the local pasta dish called "Ciceri e tria". I ate at the restaurant and greatly enjoyed this traditional fare.  

http://alleduecorti.com/reloaded/index.php/2019/07/17/italian-traditional-recipe-ciceri-e-tria/?lang=en