San Miguel de Allende

After four days in Mexico City, I boarded a first class bus (Primera Plus) to head to San Miguel de Allende, a small, colonial silver city and artist colony approximately 3 1/2 hours from D.F. The bus service is inexpensive ($44 round trip), punctual, and very comfortable. Included in the price are large seats that recline, a small lunch, and movies. On the way out I saw "El Estudiante", a tear jerker, and on the way back I watched "A Time-Traveler's Wife".

The bus terminal is in a newer part of town. When I first saw the modern surroundings I was a bit nervous, but in the distance I could see the grand "pink church". I got into one of the three waiting cabs and within minutes arrived at my hotel, Casa Quetzal. Like all of the entrance ways in the city, Casa Quetzal is marked by only a small plaque on the exterior wall. But inside it was a tiny paradise: plants, flowers, terraces for eating and sunbathing, and a wonderful friendly staff. The hotel was in both Frommer's and Lonely Planet and it had rave reviews on TripAdvisor. I also got a great discount on my room, aptly named after Diego Rivera. 

How did I spend my days? I started with a luxurious, leisurely breakfast either on the terrace or delivered to my room. (Vacation, right?) Then, I would set out to explore. My first day I signed up for a cooking class that included a market tour and demonstration. The chef guided us through the market area, purchased ingredients for the snacks and appetizers he was going to prepare, and brought it all back to a Williams-Sonoma style kitchen to cook for the ten participants. Cheese, carnitas, gorditas, red and green salsa, avocados, hibiscus iced tea in Mexican blue glassware, frozen sliced cactus for dessert. Afterward, I walked with the chef to the pastry shop that he owns (Petit Four) and enjoyed a buttery assortment of cookies and biscotti.

San Miguel is a perfect city in which to lose oneself. It is completely walkable, safe, inviting. Many shop owners speak English, and are patient if you want to practice your stumbling Spanish. Some reviewers in guide books claim that the city has become too touristy, too much of a "playground" for Americans, and there is some truth to that.

Frida Kahlo

This morning when I opened Google, I saw an unmistakable face surrounded by vines embedded within the logo. I clicked on it to find that today, July 6, is the birthday of the famous Mexican painter, Frida Kahlo (July 6, 1907-July 13, 1954). I'm sure many of us became familiar with her with the release of the movie "Frida" starring Salma Hayek, or through her relationship with the Mexican muralist, Diego Rivera. Kahlo seemed to be a formidable woman, surviving for a short time a life of much pain, heartache, and beauty. A couple of years ago, I attended the exhibit at the Philadelphia Museum of Art and was surprised to see that her oeuvre contained many still lifes in addition to the self-portraits. A small, colorful print hangs in my kitchen!

In a couple of weeks, I will travel to Mexico. One of the destinations on my itinerary is the Frida Kahlo exhibit and La Casa Azul. I'll take along the book The Lacuna by Barbara Kingsolver, which is set in Mexico and features Kahlo, Rivera, and Trotsky as fictionalized main characters. I also plan to visit San Miguel de Allende and Guanajuoto, which coincidentally is the birthplace of Diego Rivera.

http://www.fridakahlo.com/
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Frida_Kahlo

PS- On July 7, 2010, Ringo Starr turns 70! He wants everyone to show two fingers in a "peace" sign at 12 noon and say aloud, "Peace and Love." Happy Birthday, Ringo.

The Real Start of Summer

For me, today felt like the real start of summer.

I went to the Montclair Farmer's Market and bought my favorites: fresh mozzarella, tomatoes, peaches, blueberries, zucchini, lettuce, fresh bread. (You can surely imagine what I ate for lunch when I got home!)

Then, a bike ride around Montclair and over to the Avis Campbell Gardens next to the Montclair Public Library.

On nearby Church Street there was a sizable crowd at the outdoor tables, though there was space at both Raymond's and 32 Church. Judging from the empty streets and tables, is half of Montclair on vacation this weekend? I also noticed two new spots: a cupcake bakery where Gimme Jimmy's used to be and a gelato shop in the place of a photography studio. Both will certainly satisfy a summer sweet tooth.

Now, I'm finally wearing my "Cruzan hook" bracelet from St. Croix, which for the past two years I've put on at the start of summer and removed on the first day of autumn. In a little bit, I'll make a big salad, cook burgers on the grill, and enjoy the backyard. Am I finally relaxing?

Biking the D&R Canal Towpath

At 8:20 on Saturday morning I called a friend to say I would not join in the proposed bikeride due to a lingering head cold. Shortly thereafter another friend called and changed my mind. "When else will you have a day like this? It will be fun. Don't overthink this day, let's just go." He was right so I agreed to try another section of the D&R Canal Towpath. This time, five of us were going to meet at Washington Crossing State Park in Titusville, NJ. From there, we would ride to Lambertville, eat lunch, cross the bridge over to New Hope, PA to explore and then eventually ride back to our cars. I hastily packed sunblock, water and snacks and we got going.
(http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/D%26R_Canal_Trail)

The day was perfect, but certainly did not follow the original "plan". Before we even started the ride, we ate lunch at a local spot just opposite the towpath called "It's Nutts".
(http://www.itsnuttsrestaurant.com/)

Then, after 5 miles of riding, I got a flat front tire. There were gallant attempts (and jokes) from Tom, but the tire would not inflate. Technology to the rescue with help from Jay and his iPhone. The GPS indicated that we were only two miles from Lambertville and the internet listed a bike shop in the town. Yes, they had my needed tire. So, the three musketeers of Tom, Elaine and Jay rode ahead to the shop to bring back a spare tire while Dan graciously rode at a snail's pace to keep me company while I walked my bike to the shop. Because Dan and I were walking so slowly, we stopped to read information next to one of the locks. It took only three years for over 60 miles of the canal to be built, mainly by Irish immigrants. Many died during the construction. (Dan commented that it's taking longer than that for the bridge repair at Sandy Hook, NJ. True enough, but that's another story...)

After the tire was replaced, everyone needed a beer and some food! We followed the recommendations of guys at the bike shop and enjoyed a microbrew and Middle Eastern pizza and sandwiches at a restaurant just a few blocks away.
http://www.riverhorse.com/
http://www.marhabalambertville.com/

A brief walk around Lambertville revealed antique shops, restaurants, a Civil War cemetary, and a house for sale ($950,000). Then, back on the trail.

The ride to the parking lot seemed quick- no stops for repairs! Once the bikes were back on the cars, the most fitting end to the day brought us back to "It's Nutts" for homemade ice cream!

I'm not sure if this was a day more about bike riding or eating, but it doesn't matter. It was a beautiful summer day with friends, and just perfect.

Finally a Heron

For the past several weeks, I've been wondering when the herons would return to the small pond in the park I run through most mornings. Today, one beautiful great blue was on the edge of the water. I slowed down so I wouldn't disturb it. We eyed each other, and then I continued on my way.

Later, a friend and I packed our bikes to ride a section of the D and R Canal Towpath. We started in New Brunswick at Johnson Park near Rutgers University.

After walking the bikes across a slightly flooded spillway, we set out along the path, hoping for a smooth ride and some local wildlife. Unfortunately, due to recent flooding, this section of the path was filled with loose gravel, which made the ride bumpy and slow.

There were turtles and birds. And at the end of the 20 miles (round trip) there was a great blue heron on the edge of a large puddle right there in Johnson Park. I'm sure it was not the same bird, but definitely a relative.

Apparently a better part of the trail is the section that starts off Alexander Avenue in Princeton (near the kayak rentals) and heads toward Frenchtown/Trenton. Next time...