Massa Marittima

On the third day of our weekend getaway in the Maremma, my friends opted to skip the beach and instead visit the town of Massa Marittima on our way back to Florence.  I had not been to this town, and truth be told, had not heard of it.  Sergio mentioned that I would get to see the famous fresco of a "cock tree".  I wasn't sure how to imagine this fresco, and Sergio just said to wait and see.  I was intrigued.  

Shortly after we left the B and B, we turned off onto a dirt road. "Where does this lead?" I asked?  The reply, "To the house up ahead."  Our first stop was at a farm to buy some of their favorite jarred veggies and sauces.  First we chatted.  Then, we selected vegetables that were picked that morning-- pomodorini, lettuce, zucchini blossoms, an assortment of peppers.  We crossed the lot from the farm area into the shop where there are cupboards of jarred vegetables.  A specialty of this shop is the artichokes.  After a comprehensive selection, payment and more conversation, we were on our way.  

Since we were still in the hills of Tuscany, the drive was beautiful.  We reached the municipal parking lot of Massa Marittima in time to get one of the last spots.  It was Sunday, good weather, and a mountain bike race ending in the town!  Our first stop was the fresco.  

Try to look closely and see the "unusual fruit" hanging from the tree and that the women are collecting.  The fresco is located behind a trough where women would go to wash clothes.  It was hidden behind a plaster wall and discovered in 1999!!  The fresco is dated between 1265 and 1335 and referred to as the "Tree of Fertility".  It might also have been symbolic for an abundant harvest.  

The area of the town dates back to prehistoric times.  There were Etruscan settlements nearby.  It was caught between the wars of Siena and Florence. In more recent history, Massa Marittima  was an important site for the mining of minerals such as iron, mercury and copper.  The last mines closed in 1994, and now its main income is tourism. And, apparently, mountain biking.  

The construction on this cathedral dates to the 1200's.  It is dedicated to San Cerbone, Saint Cerbonius, who had a long and unusual life.  His story is told in bas relief around his tomb inside the church and also above the door on the outside of the cathedral.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cerbonius

https://www.turismomassamarittima.it/en/la-cattedrale-di-san-cerbone/

The day we visited Massa Marittima, was also the day of a mountain bike race.  For me, this was quite special as it brought back memories of the many times I accompanied my son to various mountain bike races and courses, especially before he could drive.  In this piazza, the contrast of the young riders and the ancient buildings was notable.  

http://www.thetrailbrothers.com/en/

The day was wonderful and filled with the joy of being in Italy-- good friends, surprising art, ancient history, great food, and the sign of new life in old surroundings.

Be sure to add Massa Marittima to your travel list for Tuscany!  Ciao for now! 

The Maremma

Travel might take us to a new place, or to a favorite destination.   When my neighbors asked me to join them for a trip to the Maremma, of course I agreed.  The Maremma is one of my favorite places along the Tuscan coast. And, we would stay at an agriturismo (B and B) that feels like home-- with kind hosts, a friendly dog, a pool, and a spectacular view into the hills.

The Maremma is located on the western side of Tuscany. The drive from Florence is beautiful-- rolling hills, olive groves, corn fields and in the summer, acres of sunflowers.  Some of the land remains undeveloped, in part due to the wetlands and malaria that existed only decades ago.   There are hilltop villages and castles, towns along the coast, hotels and vacation rentals.  Unlike in Florida where I spent several weeks this summer, the land around the coast is not flat and there are no palm trees.

https://www.discovertuscany.com/maremma/

http://www.travelingintuscany.com/engels/maremma.htm

At the beaches in Italy, it is common to pay for services at a "bagno".  Each bagno has a name and provides what you need for the day-- lounge chairs and umbrella, a place to change, bathrooms, and a restaurant.  The colors of the umbrellas vary from one bagno to another, which creates the rainbow that you see in the pictures of Italian beach resorts. Since it was already the first of October, only a few of the bagnos were open.  We had a very nice spot with Bagno La Vela which we enjoyed for two days of sun and waves.

http://www.castiglionepescaia.it/en/5079-2/

On our first evening, we drove to Vetulonia for an aperitivo and sunset.  The origins of the town date back to Etruscan times- approximately 600 years BC.  In past years, my friends rented a flat in Vetulonia to use a base to go to the beach and explore the area. I had also been to Vetulonia with them before and understood its lure.  When we arrived to one of the few bars, they were greeted warmly. The bar with a view to the sunset is a popular gathering spot.  I asked my friend about the population and she reminded me that there are 254 inhabitants.  There was a mix of old and young having a spritz or beer.  I wondered what it would be like to live in such a small community, full of natural beauty and history, though none of the activities that I enjoy.  

Dinner both evenings were at a local restaurant near our B and B.  The restaurant was busy, with tables inside and outside.  There were German tourists at the table next to us.  The service was efficient, the wine and food very good.  The first night I had cream of pumpkin soup, salad, tagliatelle with cinghiale (wild boar sauce). The second night I had pizza.  Certo!  Speaking of wild boars, we did spot a white boar on the side of the road as we drove back in the dark to where we were staying.  The next night, I was awakened by clacking and digging sounds-- wild boar tearing up the yard to eat the roots of the grass. I did not get out of bed to investigate, and in the morning was a bit regretful that I had missed such a photo opportunity.  

The time at the beach, early morning swims, and good company were just the reset I needed after a frustrating week of trying to recover the items that were in my stolen wallet.  

The third day we bypassed the beach and instead went to a small farm and then the old city of Massa Marittima.  That will be a separate post.